Restaurant: Gargoyles on the Square, 215 Elm Street (Davis Square), Somerville, Mass.
Date Enjoyed: Thursday, August 13, 2009
Summer Restaurant Weeks returned to Boston on Monday, Aug. 9. In case you live under a rock, during Restaurant Week, participating restaurants arrange prix fixe menus and serve them at a set price that is usually lower than their regular menu. It is an opportunity to try different restaurants and foods one wouldn’t try otherwise. Diners usually have a choice among three or more items per course (appetizer, entrée and dessert). In Boston, the price for a three-course lunch is $20.09 and a three-course dinner is $33.09. For more information, you should visit http://www.restaurantweekboston.com.
After some deliberation and debate, I made a reservation for two at Gargoyles on the Square in Somerville’s Davis Square and I was richly rewarded. I arrived at Gargoyles fifteen minutes before my reserved time but was still promptly seated by the polite hostess. I chose to sit in the front room, with the bar, because it was a nice day for people-watching through the large street-facing windows. If you want something a little more intimate and slightly quieter, I would recommend sitting in the back room.
Our waitress came to our table after giving us a few minutes to settle in and to check out the menu (not that I really needed the time. My picks were pretty much cemented when I made the online reservation for the restaurant.). She was pleasant, knowledgeable about the menu and prompt with the delivery of our orders.
The bread was delicious and fresh; crusty, chewy and garlicky in all the right places. The Riesling crisp, fruity and smooth; a great companion to my menu selections.
My meal: Cast Iron Baked Figs (fourme d’ambert, prosciutto, aged sherry and chives), Honey & Hoisin Glazed Duck Confit (sweet sticky rice, mango, cashews, young coconut milk) and Fresh Strawberry Tiramisu (lady fingers, cocoa, powdered sugar). My friend’s meal: Hawaiian Style Tuna Poke (hijiki, nori oil and red ginger), Miso Braised Short Rib (sweet mashed potatoes, corn shoots and oyster mushrooms) and Passionfruit Cheesecake (pineapple-mint relish, whipped cream).
My eyes nearly jumped out of head when my figs arrived. The generosity of the portion surprised me. There was a mountain of cheese covering what seemed like a half dozen figs (quartered) and a whole pig’s worth of prosciutto. The sweet and salty fragrance tickled my nose, triggering my salivary glands. The balance between the sweet and smooth figs, salty and crispy prosciutto and creamy fourme d’ambert melded into a beautiful dance of flavors on my tongue and truly whetted my appetite for my entrée.
Tuna poke came in a less generous serving and slightly overcompensated with intense flavors that lingered a little too long on my tongue. Upon first taste, I was reminded of sauces my grandmother used to make for her dumplings—a mix of vinegar, soy sauce and ginger—and I couldn’t help but fall in love. Unfortunately, the aftertaste long outlasted that affection and lingered even after I finished my main course.
The brown, crispy duck breast and leg arrived on a bed of white, stick rice sprinkled with mango atop a rich, green banana leaf. The duck skin crackled and the meat pulled apart at the touch of my fork. Raising my fork to my mouth, I tasted a refined Peking duck that left me wanting much more. Every element on the plate both complemented and enhanced each other.
Less impressive was the plating and portion size of the short rib but the tenderness and taste more than compensated for that slight shortcoming. A knife was unnecessary as the meat pulled apart at the slightest touch and the flavor was simultaneously rich and delicate.
My strawberry tiramisu arrived as a cloud of mascarpone garnished with strawberries and lady fingers in a martini glass. Strawberry essence tinted the mascarpone and the entire offering was a whimsical and delightful take on a classic.
Bold flavors saved the passionfruit cheesecake from its disappointing plating: a thin slice accompanied by small pineapple chunks. The pineapple slightly confused me but I suppose it accompanied the tropical fruit leaning of the dessert.
All in all, an enjoyable evening of delicious dishes and a great continuation of the restaurant week tradition.